At dawn on June 11th, we hoisted the sails bound for Raroia, the island we chose to land on in the Tuamotu Archipelago.
The Tuamotu Archipelago, occupying an area comparable to Western Europe, comprises 80 islands, or rather atolls, which are completely different from the Marquesas. Out of this vast area, only 885 square kilometers are actual landmass.
The atolls are coral reefs, more or less circular in structure, enclosing an internal lagoon connected to the ocean through one or more channels known as “passes,” which can be entered or exited at specific times depending on the tide. Atolls form when an island, typically of volcanic origin, begins to collapse and sink underwater due to the gradual subsidence of the seafloor under the weight of the volcano itself and accumulated sediments. As the island submerges, corresponding growth upward of coral reefs is observed, forming the ring-shaped structure of the atoll.
Formation pattern of atolls
In the past, the Tuamotu Archipelago was known as the “dangerous archipelago” because the lack of precise detection tools made navigation extremely difficult. Today, with the advent of GPS and more accurate weather forecasts, many more sailors can access to this paradise. However, some challenges persist when navigating each new atoll.
The first challenge is navigating through the pass, ideally when there is no incoming or outgoing current due to the tide, in order to avoid not only currents that can reach speeds of 6 knots or more but also the resulting breaking waves. This means that entering or exiting an atoll is possible approximately every six hours. In reality, other factors such as strong winds can cause shifts in the “tidal schedules,” making transit planning somewhat more complex. The good news is that it’s possible to enter or exit most passes even earlier or later than the ideal time by taking precautions, such as passing on the windward side of the channel instead of the center where the waves and the current are strongest.
A second difficulty encountered once inside the lagoon is navigating to the anchorage area while slaloming between “boomies,” which are more or less extensive and emergent coral heads. To prevent collisions, sailors use satellite photos available in dedicated programs and rely on visual navigation, ideally with the sun behind or directly overhead and in clear skies.
Overall, while modern technology has made the Tuamotu Archipelago more accessible to sailors, navigating its waters still requires careful planning and respect for natural conditions.
Anchoring system with floats
Another challenge arises from the presence of coral formations, which are omnipresent and, although often small in size, pose serious anchoring problems, especially if, when the wind changes direction, the boat turns. In these cases, there’s a high probability that the chain could become tangled in the coral formations. For this reason, as the chain is paid out, floats are attached to lift it over potential obstacles and allow the boat to maneuver without (almost…) any issues. Equally important, this technique preserves the integrity of coral formations!
Arrival at Raroia
On June 14th, we reached the atoll of Raroia after 420 nautical miles and 3 days of sailing with a nice beam wind that accompanied us throughout the journey.
Immediately after anchoring, two sailors approached us and invited us to join them in visiting the village where the island’s only “restaurant,” run by a local family, had prepared lunch that day. Without hesitation, we accepted, and that’s how we met Ruby and Ron, two American solo sailors with whom we shared an excellent meal of tuna prepared in various ways, as well as some lovely walks in the following days.
In a speedboat with Ron and Ruby from the anchorage area to the villageArrival at the village of RaroiaLunch at te “restaurant”The village of Raroia
In Raroia, the raft of Kon-Tiki, led by Thor Heyerdahl, a Norwegian anthropologist, was shipwrecked. In 1947, he reached French Polynesia from Peru, intending to prove the South American origin of the Polynesian peoples. To commemorate this event, a “monument” has been erected, which we found with some difficulty in the dense bush, where hundreds of small white birds have built their nests.
L’ancoraggio a RaroiaIl “monumento” a Kon-TikiRon and Ruby in Raroia
Surely, the islands of the Tuamotus are closer to the imagination of French Polynesia compared to the Marquesas. For the crystal-clear waters, the colors of the sea, and the richness of the seabed, Raroia seems to be an excellent starting point!
Raroia, Tuamotu
At dawn on June 11th, we hoisted the sails bound for Raroia, the island we chose to land on in the Tuamotu Archipelago.
The Tuamotu Archipelago, occupying an area comparable to Western Europe, comprises 80 islands, or rather atolls, which are completely different from the Marquesas. Out of this vast area, only 885 square kilometers are actual landmass.
The atolls are coral reefs, more or less circular in structure, enclosing an internal lagoon connected to the ocean through one or more channels known as “passes,” which can be entered or exited at specific times depending on the tide. Atolls form when an island, typically of volcanic origin, begins to collapse and sink underwater due to the gradual subsidence of the seafloor under the weight of the volcano itself and accumulated sediments. As the island submerges, corresponding growth upward of coral reefs is observed, forming the ring-shaped structure of the atoll.
In the past, the Tuamotu Archipelago was known as the “dangerous archipelago” because the lack of precise detection tools made navigation extremely difficult. Today, with the advent of GPS and more accurate weather forecasts, many more sailors can access to this paradise. However, some challenges persist when navigating each new atoll.
The first challenge is navigating through the pass, ideally when there is no incoming or outgoing current due to the tide, in order to avoid not only currents that can reach speeds of 6 knots or more but also the resulting breaking waves. This means that entering or exiting an atoll is possible approximately every six hours. In reality, other factors such as strong winds can cause shifts in the “tidal schedules,” making transit planning somewhat more complex. The good news is that it’s possible to enter or exit most passes even earlier or later than the ideal time by taking precautions, such as passing on the windward side of the channel instead of the center where the waves and the current are strongest.
A second difficulty encountered once inside the lagoon is navigating to the anchorage area while slaloming between “boomies,” which are more or less extensive and emergent coral heads. To prevent collisions, sailors use satellite photos available in dedicated programs and rely on visual navigation, ideally with the sun behind or directly overhead and in clear skies.
Overall, while modern technology has made the Tuamotu Archipelago more accessible to sailors, navigating its waters still requires careful planning and respect for natural conditions.
Another challenge arises from the presence of coral formations, which are omnipresent and, although often small in size, pose serious anchoring problems, especially if, when the wind changes direction, the boat turns. In these cases, there’s a high probability that the chain could become tangled in the coral formations. For this reason, as the chain is paid out, floats are attached to lift it over potential obstacles and allow the boat to maneuver without (almost…) any issues. Equally important, this technique preserves the integrity of coral formations!
On June 14th, we reached the atoll of Raroia after 420 nautical miles and 3 days of sailing with a nice beam wind that accompanied us throughout the journey.
Immediately after anchoring, two sailors approached us and invited us to join them in visiting the village where the island’s only “restaurant,” run by a local family, had prepared lunch that day. Without hesitation, we accepted, and that’s how we met Ruby and Ron, two American solo sailors with whom we shared an excellent meal of tuna prepared in various ways, as well as some lovely walks in the following days.
In Raroia, the raft of Kon-Tiki, led by Thor Heyerdahl, a Norwegian anthropologist, was shipwrecked. In 1947, he reached French Polynesia from Peru, intending to prove the South American origin of the Polynesian peoples. To commemorate this event, a “monument” has been erected, which we found with some difficulty in the dense bush, where hundreds of small white birds have built their nests.
Surely, the islands of the Tuamotus are closer to the imagination of French Polynesia compared to the Marquesas. For the crystal-clear waters, the colors of the sea, and the richness of the seabed, Raroia seems to be an excellent starting point!